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    <title>Manufactured Housing Global Forums</title>
    <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/index.php</link>
    <description><![CDATA[]]></description>
    <language>EN</language>
    <pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 10:54:49 -0400</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 10:54:49 -0400</lastBuildDate>
    <category>Manufactured Housing Global Forums</category>
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    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: 1969 or 1970 Home What Wind can it take</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84233,84234#msg-84234</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The federal government started to regulate MH construction several years after your home was built.  The only records would be local.... in your state.  The manufacturers name should be on the state title.

Mobile homes sold in Mississippi are titled as motor vehicles. Certificates of Title are issued by the State Tax Commission through  County Tax Collectors in the county where the mobile home is located. 

An application for a new Certificate of Title can be made if the original Certificate is not available for attachment to the application.  Visit your County Tax Collector's office for the best direct information and application forms.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84233,84234#msg-84234</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 10:54:49 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] 1969 or 1970 Home What Wind can it take</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84233,84233#msg-84233</link>
      <author>nance</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have a older mobile home, I found a serial number I think is a 1969 or 1970 it is 10X55  , but I need a manufactured.  I have look ever where on the trailer.  I need to know what wind it can take with tie downs for the planning commossion.  I live on the Miss. gulf coast.  can you help me?  Nancy]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84233,84233#msg-84233</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 10:25:31 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: Determining the Window Manufacture</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84232#msg-84232</link>
      <author>trmimo</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Most Fleetwoods had Phillips windows.  They went out of business a few years ago.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84232#msg-84232</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 11 May 2012 07:09:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: Determining the Window Manufacture</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84231#msg-84231</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[You can order  windows, screens,plumbing and electric parts, bath and kitchen fixtures, roof and ceiling components, and more.... even set-up materials from  Complete Mobile Home Parts On Line]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84231#msg-84231</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 10:46:59 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: Determining the Window Manufacture</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84230#msg-84230</link>
      <author>rmurray</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Wow you have a tough challenge. That 1989 model home was built prior to the wind zone requirements went into effect. The wind zone requirements in the HUD code came along later. I doubt any manufacturer bothered with more expensive super windows..I doubt you will be successful in your quest. Others here might well remember better than I about Fleetwood's supplier. Most GA and FL manufacturers used Phillips or Kinro window companys product.

Sorry you most likely will not be allowed to legally use these used windows..]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84230#msg-84230</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 08:20:02 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Determining the Window Manufacture</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84227#msg-84227</link>
      <author>LMillholland</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I own a 1989 Fleetwood Double-Wide in the state of Florida.  All new windows sold in Florida must pass a 140 MPH wind load certification, but residential code only requires 108 MPH wind load certification.  I replaced the windows in the Double-Wide last year, and saved the removed windows to use in a shed. The building inspectors will not allow me to use the removed windows, unless I can obtain documentation showing that they have been certified for at least 108 MPH wind load.  I have looked at the removed windows, and can not find any manufactures information on them.  Since Fleetwood enterprises went out of business in 2009, how can I find out who manufactured the windows that they used in 1989 for this Double-Wide?]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84227,84227#msg-84227</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 02:17:47 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[First Time Home Buyers Forum] Re: Bought a Cavalier and want to know about mosture problems</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84225#msg-84225</link>
      <author>trmimo</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I like to put a de-humidifier in the laundry room.  Most can be easily adapted to drain through a small hose like you would use for an aquarium, which I run into the washing machine drain.  A small hose will fit in beside the drain hose for the washing machine.  This saves dumping water out of it all the time.  To control it is important to use bathroom vent fans when bathing and showering.  Use the kitchen vent fan when boiling water.  Make sure skirting is properly vented.  During the summer, pay attention to the dew point outside and keep your thermostat set above that temperature.]]></description>
      <category>First Time Home Buyers Forum</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84225#msg-84225</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2012 08:28:07 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[First Time Home Buyers Forum] Re: Bought a Cavalier and want to know about mosture problems</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84223#msg-84223</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Elevated relative humidity at a surface – 70 percent or higher - can lead to problems with mold, corrosion, decay and other moisture related deterioration. When relative humidity reaches 100 percent, condensation can occur on surfaces leading to a whole host of additional problems. An elevated relative humidity in carpet and within fabrics can lead to dust mite infestation and mildew (mildew is mold growing on fabrics). 

Low relative humidity can lead to discomfort, shrinkage of wood floors and wood furniture, cracking of paint on wood trim and static electricity discharges. 

The key is not to be too low and not to be too high. High enough to be comfortable, but low enough to avoid moisture problems associated with mold, corrosion, decay, and condensation.....

......Interior relative humidity should be maintained so that a 70 percent relative humidity at a building surface is avoided in order to control mold growth and should never rise above 60 percent in any event.

(Source: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0203-relative-humidity )

Manufactured homes do not like moisture, any more or any less than any other framed structure.  I am in Central Florida, the humidity capitol of the Western World. I  live in a manufactured home and own several MH rentals.  Modern high efficiency central air units handle the humidity in our homes and keep the insides very comfortable.  All structures in Florida tend to show the effects of the humidity on the outside

Running several dehumidifiers may not be much more energy efficient than turning on the central air but surly wont hurt.  Concerns about energy conservation has lead to the development of energy efficient air systems.  The key to de-humidification is correctly sizing the air unit to volume of space it needs to manage. Undersizing of air conditioning equipment can lead to to obvious comfort and humidity problems. However, oversizing of air conditioning equipment can also lead to high interior humidity problems since oversized equipment will not operate as often, and therefore will dehumidify less than properly sized equipment.

Air unit size in the humid south is calculated differently than in dryer climates.  Consult with an experienced air conditioning contractor to find out what is right for your location.]]></description>
      <category>First Time Home Buyers Forum</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84223#msg-84223</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 May 2012 11:00:41 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: triple wide separation in floor and cieling</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84221#msg-84221</link>
      <author>trmimo</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Your vents absolutely should be open in the winter.  In Minnesota, winter is when you are likely to experience condensation.  The only time you should close them is during a very cold and windy spell.  They should be open in the summer as well.  David is right that your home likely needs re-leveled.  Also lag bolts between sections of this home should be more like every 32&quot; rather than 8'.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84221#msg-84221</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2012 07:32:39 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: lot rent increase with each new owner</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84219,84220#msg-84220</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[MICHIGAN MOBILE HOME PARK TENENT'S RIGHTS

A mobile home owner who rents a space or site in a licensed mobile home park is offered certain protections under the Michigan Mobile Home Commission Act and the Mobile Home Administrative Code. The Code is a set of rules that governs areas relating to the licensing and construction of mobile home parks.  

The Code also sets standards for roads in the park, utilities and recreational facilities, as well as standards to protect the health, safety and welfare of mobile home residents.  

In addition to the above special mobile home park laws, the mobile home owner who rents a site has the same legal rights as any other residential tenant.  The tenant also has the right to sign a lease, to pay a security deposit not to exceed 1 1/2 times the monthly rent, to receive a copy of park rules and regulations, to receive an inventory check list upon moving on the site, and is entitled to the return of the security deposit if proper procedures have been followed.  Tenants have the legal right to complain to health or other authorities without fear of a retaliatory eviction.

A MOBILE HOME PARK OWNER OR OPERATOR MUST:

1- Offer a tenant a written lease for one year or more.  This protects a tenant because the amount of rent and other conditions set out in the lease are fixed for the duration of the lease agreement for the site.  The terms of the lease stay in effect unless either the tenant or owner breaks a clause in the lease.  The lease may also be ended if both the tenant and the park owner agree to do so.  A prospective tenant may refuse to sign a lease, but he or she loses the protection a lease offers.  If the tenant decides not to sign a lease, the park owner must require the tenant to sign a written refusal.  The park owner must keep a copy of the written refusal on file.  Before signing a lease, the mobile home owner should review it carefully or have an attorney check the terms of the lease.

2- Give the park tenant a copy of park rules and regulations that govern such matters as maintenance of the mobile home, pet ownership, fees and charges.  The rules must apply equally to all residents in the park.  Before renting a site, the mobile home owner should read the park rules carefully and decide whether the rules are too restrictive.

3- Give residents a one year notice before converting to total rental of both sites and mobile homes or before changing the use of the land where the park is located.

4- Comply with security deposit law like any other landlord.

5- Keep written records for each tenant including a copy of the lease or refusal to sign the lease, move-in inventory check lists, rent receipts, notices and correspondence.

A MOBILE HOME PARK OWNER OR OPERATOR CANNOT:

1- Charge a fee for entering or leaving a mobile home park.  These charges are also known as entrance and exit fees.

2- Charge more than 1 1/2 times the monthly rent as a security deposit.

3- Require a person to buy a mobile home from another person as a condition of renting a space in the park.

4- Require a person to purchase, rent or lease goods or services as a condition for renting a space in the park.  The park owner cannot refuse to rent a space unless tenant buys a specific model mobile home from a specified manufacturer or dealer.  The park owner cannot require tenant to purchase LP gas only from a dealer authorized by the park owner.  If a tenant’s furnace needs to be repaired, the park owner cannot limit the tenant to a specific repair service.

5- Deny a resident the right to sell his or her mobile home on-site, in-park, to anyone, provided the proposed buyer qualifies for tenancy and the mobile home meets the conditions set out in the park rules and regulations.

6- Deny a person the right to sell a mobile home or remain as a resident based solely on the age or size of the mobile home.
 
7- Charge the tenant a presale inspection fee of more that $30.00 (or the amount charged by the local building inspector if higher).

8- Prohibit children from residing in the park unless such a park rule was in effect before a resident was approved as a tenant.

9- Prohibit pets that were approved under prior park rules, unless the pet is a dangerous animal.

10- Evict a resident without “just cause.&quot;

Source - http://www.michiganlegalaid.org/library_client/resource.2005-09-29.6042542161/html_view

There is a new trend in Manufactured Housing Communities called resident-owned community.  An &quot;ROC&quot; is a manufactured/mobile home or rv park that is organized as a not-for-profit co-operative, condominium association, corporation or land subdivision, operated by a board of directors elected by the equity owning residents. 

Unlike the &quot;land lease&quot; lot rental type of arrangement, in a ROC the residents own the land and enjoy many of the advantages of traditional home ownership, such as tax benefits, homestead exemption and the potential for equity growth.  As a non-profit, all park income after expenses is re-invested in the community. 

For more info see http://www.rocusa.org/ or contact ROC USA at  7 Wall Street, Concord, NH 03301 - Phone: (603) 856-0246 - Email: info@rocusa.org]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84219,84220#msg-84220</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 18:35:02 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] lot rent increase with each new owner</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84219,84219#msg-84219</link>
      <author>michiganhadit</author>
      <description><![CDATA[We seem to be getting new owners quite frequently, each one makes promises and each sells out and the new owner jacks up our rates again.  Can this be stopped]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84219,84219#msg-84219</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 13:21:55 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: triple wide separation in floor and cieling</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84218#msg-84218</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The vast majority of problems that owners experience with their manufactured homes are due to the home being out of level. Regardless of the type soil below the foundation or its pre-compaction ALL STRUCTURES EXPERIENCE SETTLEMENT. The Empire State Building in Manhattan sitting on solid rock settle a measurable amount each year. 

On most soil types a releveling after the home has been in place for a year to 18 months resolves this problem for all time.  The soil directly under the piers gets super compressed.  While there will continue to be settlement as long as there is gravity, the amount, in the majority of cases, will be negligible

Even though you may not notice or feel that the home is not level if the marriage line  is opening your home is almost certainly out of level... Unless you have extensive experience in setting manufactured homes you should not attempt to relevel your home yourself. 



The operations involved in jacking and raising and then lowering the home can be very dangerous and should be attempted only by experienced individuals. All states now require manufactured housing installers to be licensed. Find a licensed contractor. This is NOT a simple operation. Attempting this yourself could not only be dangerous but very costly. The best home can be damaged severely if improperly jacked, moved or re-set. 

If your having difficulty finding a competent installer contact the department in Minn that licenses them  

Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry 
443 Lafayette Road N. 
St. Paul, MN 55155 
(651) 284-5005 | (800) 342-5354 
Construction Codes and Licensing Division (CCLD) 
Manufactured Structures 
(651) 284-5034 
(651) 284-5743 (fax) 
 DLI.License @state.mn.us 

or your state Manufactured Housing Association.

Manufactured and Modular Home Association of Minnesota 
1540 Humboldt Ave., Ste 205 
West St. Paul, MN 55118 
1.800.OWNER.21 
admin@mnmfghome.org  

If you would like to check yourself to see if your home is out of level PLUS get some idea of the operation involved in releveling take a look at the Releveling Kit  from Aberdeen Repair. This kit includes complete step-by-step instructions and a waterline level. Use these instructions and the enclosed waterline level to determine whether or not your home is out of level. You will also use this information to become a better-informed consumer and give yourself the upper hand when it comes to hiring a contractor to do the job.

Marriage Joint Adjustment Bracket for mobile homes make adjustment of marriage joints faster and easier.  The hardware cost is around $50 each bracket.  Lag bolts could work as well.  Your installer will need to make the determination which is right for you home, based on local soil conditions, building codes and his past experience.

Different climates require different amounts of ventilation under a manufactured home to prevent mold.  I live in Florida where we must have continuous ventilation year round.  I added a thermostatically controlled fan under my home to stop mold propagation.  Find that licensed installer that you can trust.  He will have the correct info on skirting ventilation for Minn...... or perhaps one of the other regulars here has experience in your part of the country.

Please come back and let us know how your efforts are going.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84218#msg-84218</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 12:48:04 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] triple wide separation in floor and cieling</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84217#msg-84217</link>
      <author>mettao</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi David and thank you for your site!
I'm hoping you can help answer some questions for me? I purchased a Triple Wide Manufactured home (used) and it's my first one, still learning about them but b-4 we begin
here's some stats that may help you:
Triple Wide X-T-U Model #NN427009LTWI
Madison Park Model from Liberty Homes (aka Badger Built Homes) in Wisconsin.
42 foot wide x 70 long (with the hitch installed.)
The LT means &quot;limited,&quot; and that the home owner and the dealer have changed something's from the standard floor plan and specs.
This home came off line on 04/15/05.
Upon reading the standard features it states: Floors Consturction= 2 x 8 floor joists, 23/32nd T &amp; G floor decking, Transverse Floor.
Problem: I've got some separation occuring between what I call section's 1 and 2 (haven't noticed anything yet between 2 &amp; 3) but I can see thru the carpeting where one side is
just a tad higher and it's futher evident in a cieling in the back area of the house that runs along that seam. I can see it open and shut during winter/summer. I've also had a creak
develop under some new vinyl flooring I had installed and the creak came from the luan board they initially installed for the vinyl separating (they fixed it by cutting/lifting the vinyl
and putting in some screws, but I'm sure there will be more to come.
I've learned that Hud code changed in Jan 2007 just after this was built and have also learned about something called &quot;MARRAIGE LOCK BRACKETS,&quot; and want to know if that
will fix my problem. I haven't found many people that know anything about them? and hope you can shed some light on it.
I've learned that the house is supposed to have &quot;lag bolts,&quot; installed every 8 feet or so joining the wood between the sections at an angle and I have yet to crawl under there to see
if they were used? but weather/age is not cooperating with me to get that done just yet. I know that there are steel beams that run the whole length of the house so I couldn't see
how lag bolts could be used but I guess there is wood under there also...it's hard to see with all that black &quot;belly wrap,&quot; they hold the insulation in with.
Lastly, it's super hard to find someone to come fix this in the area I live (Northern Minnesota) but one guy I talked to made a comment that really blew my mind. He mentioned to 
me that the decorative cement block &quot;skirting,&quot; if you will that sits under the house and has sliding vents in it...he said that they need to be open in the &quot;winter?&quot; and closed in the 
summer? That's totally opposite of what logic would dictate, I'd like to think we miscommunicated but he assurred me that things and thoughts have changed and what he told 
me was correct? I don't know about that, it just doesn't sit right with me but if you could claify that I'd appreciate it as well.
I'll await your response and again, I really appreciate your time.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84217,84217#msg-84217</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 12:19:20 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: Double wide remodel. Have some ?'s</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,83919,84215#msg-84215</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The problem with running water lines inside any home became obvious to me about a year ago.  I came to my office on a Tuesday after a three day week-end and noticed that there were wet streaks going down the foundation skirting.  Once inside I discovered the floor flooded with 5 inches of standing water through out the entire home we converted to our office.

That small pool caused over $20,000.00 in damage repairs and mold mitigation.  I was lucky to have insurance.  BUT the company discounted the damaged parts based on their age.  If I was not a renovator with a skilled home repair team I would not have been able to afford the repair work.  

The leak came from a pin hole in 1/4 inch clear tubing that the former owners had used to hook up the ice maker.  Don't let this happen to you.  Even if you live in a climate like CO, where freezing is common it is not a good idea to run your water lines inside the home.  If a pin hole in 1/4 inch line left 5 inches of standing water imagine what a 1/2 or 3/4 inch broken line would do in your home.  

ALL manufactured home builders run their main water runs under the floor, on the warm side of the bottom insulation.  It may be very inconvenient to open the insulation to install new water lines but it is by far the best and most accepted path.   If the lines are under the floor, the worst problem you can face might be replacing wet insulation, as opposed to terrifying and perhaps economically irreversible damage.]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,83919,84215#msg-84215</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 22:24:07 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: Double wide remodel. Have some ?'s</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,83919,84214#msg-84214</link>
      <author>yogabill</author>
      <description><![CDATA[To add to Davids input, sheetrock will also act as thermal mass to some extent (more so than the cardboard walls)  I prefer laying the drywall vertically as there will be fewer and shorter cuts to make.  

Depending on where you live, I live in Colorado, you will want to keep those pipes as warm as possible.  I would avoid putting them in the walls if at all possible to make them more accessible if you have leaks.

be well
yb]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,83919,84214#msg-84214</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 21:46:46 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: 1993 Skyline 28 x 48</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84213#msg-84213</link>
      <author>yogabill</author>
      <description><![CDATA[David,
Thanks for the reply.  I did some more checking around and found that the GFCI in the bathroom was connected to the outside outlet and that the outside outlet was bad thus tripping the GFCI.  Great forum.]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84213#msg-84213</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 21:37:33 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: 1993 Skyline 28 x 48</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84212#msg-84212</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Your exterior and wet area electric receptacles must be run through a ground fault interrupter (GFI) breaker. 

A GFI breaker is much more subtle that the standard circuit breaker. A normal 120-volt outlet in the United States has two vertical slots and then a round hole centered below them. The left slot is slightly larger than the right. The left slot is called &quot;neutral,&quot; the right slot is called &quot;hot&quot; and the hole below them is called &quot;ground.&quot; 

If an appliance is working properly, all electricity that the appliance uses will flow from hot to neutral. A GFI breaker monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit. It is able to sense a mismatch as small as 4 or 5 milliamps, and it can react as quickly as one-thirtieth of a second.  This protects you from accidental shock or worse electrocution.

In North America, GFI receptacles are usually built into a receptacle which can be mixed with regular outlets with a standard cover plate. GFI circuit breakers for panel boards are less common in residential applications in the U.S., due to higher cost. 

In most manufactured homes you will find a funny looking receptacle with buttons on it, in one of the bathrooms.  This is a GFI breaker built into a recept.  It will look something like this
Find it and press the reset button.

Let us know if that corrected the problem.]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84212#msg-84212</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 21:13:05 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: PRICE</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84209,84211#msg-84211</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Purchasing any new home is a complex, often confusing process, even more so if it is a manufactured home. For all their advantages - and there are many - manufactured homes are still sold through dealerships. This presents a big challenge to the smart home shopper. 

There are dozens of factors that go into the retail price for any home.  Will the price including delivery, installation, site work, utility hook ups, skirting???  $51K is not a bad price in any market if it includes all of the above.

To really learn what is right in your particular market you have to do your homework - comparative shopping.  Visit other local dealers and price out their homes with the same features.  Get in your car and visit dealers in near-by towns that carry the same brand to find out what they would want for the exact same home.

Be sure you compare apples and apples and that the prices you get include the same field services (site work, installation, utilities, permits, skirting, etc)

Buying a home is a huge investment.  Become an educated buyer before you buy. 

Check the book store on this site for The Grissim Ratings Guide to Manufactured Homes.   You will get a better idea of how your home stacks up against the competition in quality. Grissim offers descriptions of the entire spectrum of what manufactured housing has to offer, from gorgeous high end dwellings indistinguishable from site-built homes to bare bones single section housing.

Download The Grissim Buyer's Guide to Manufactured Homes and Land  You will learn how to find a reputable dealer and negotiate a fair price.  The chapter &quot;Getting to a fair price and a square deal&quot; alone is worth the price of this book. 

The no-nonsense, BUYERS GUIDE was designed specifically to help you save thousands of dollars. Grissim explains just how the manufactured home industry operates, exposes its secrets, and teaches you step by step how to find a dealer worthy of your trust, how to make the right home selection, how to accurately determine the fair price of a home, and, as important, how to be informed, empowered, and swindle-proof.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84209,84211#msg-84211</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 20:55:35 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] 1993 Skyline 28 x 48</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84210#msg-84210</link>
      <author>yogabill</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have an outside outlet that just stopped working.  My meter tells me there is no power coming into it.  My panel only has 6 circuits but none of them are labeled for the outside outlet.  The outlet is located just below the outlet for the washer on the inside.  Do you think these are connected.  Looks like there is an incoming and outgoing wires but no idea where it goes to.  Any suggestions?]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84210,84210#msg-84210</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 20:26:30 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] PRICE</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84209,84209#msg-84209</link>
      <author>dantone</author>
      <description><![CDATA[i am located in Baton Rouge, La. I'm looking at a new (2011) sunshine m/home 16 X 80 9 ft ceileing overhead vents,4' crown mlding, 4'base boards 2 x6 walls,upgrade insulation everything is 16 on cntrs...  its very nice but they are asking $51K  @ 1140 sq thats $44.75 sq ft. I feel thats a bit high, any feed back would be appreciated.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84209,84209#msg-84209</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2012 14:14:18 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[First Time Home Buyers Forum] Bought a Cavalier and want to know about mosture problems</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84208#msg-84208</link>
      <author>rcycholl</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi this is a first.  After working for the Goverment for over 30 years, finally retired and moving to Eastern Tennessee.   Bought a Cavalier Manufactured Home, with OSB upgrading a PaceSetter moder over 2,000 sq feet.  Have a question, I know the Southeast is humid and manufactured homes do not like mosture.   Whats the opiniion of me purchasing several dehumidifiers for the house.   Do you think that will be a good investment for the house?   Thanks for in advance for replies.]]></description>
      <category>First Time Home Buyers Forum</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,84208,84208#msg-84208</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:56:44 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: value of 1972 MH</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84207#msg-84207</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The value of an older manufactured home depends on many factors.  Location, condition, upgrades, additions, and local market conditions.  

A BOOK VALUE is an evaluation of any manufactured home based on the information you submit. What you will get back is the typical resale value of that year make and size home across the country for the past few months, adjusted for your local market.

Most people are required to hire a licensed appraiser to put a value on a home prior to being approved for a home loan. Appraisers use comps (comparable market sales) of local properties sold within the last six months to value your home. With today’s rapidly recovering market, information over six-month-old is considered ancient history by lenders. 

You should also do your homework. Call parks and agents with similar homes for sale and get the sales prices to satisfy yourself that the price is reasonable for your local market.

When you sell a home, remember the opinion that counts above all others is your prospective buyer's.  Obtain a BOOK VALUE REPORT so you have an independently calculated valuation to offer to your prospects when they come to view the home.]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84207#msg-84207</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2012 11:26:51 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: value of 1972 MH</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84205#msg-84205</link>
      <author>rmurray</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Value is all local and now, much depends on the park it is in.. Check current selling prices there and you decide how others compare to yours..In a few parks in this country mostly with ocean front locations the price could be VERY high. If the park is rural and still called Trailer Park, Its value probably is VERY low. Most park owners who allow this old of home in the park own rentals and might be the best person to try to sell to..As a matter of fact if the lease allows for rental and park rent is reasonable, you might want to consider renting it..]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84205#msg-84205</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2012 11:14:35 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: value of 1972 MH</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84204#msg-84204</link>
      <author>sumisangel</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I'm also trying to find out the value of a 1972 50x14 mobile home. It is located in a park and needs a lot of repairs. What would be a fair asking price? It does not have any extras such as a garden tub, fireplace. Just a good old regular trailer. My mom bought it in 1985 for about $8,000.]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84204,84204#msg-84204</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2012 10:05:31 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Re: Mounting Flat Panel TV in Manufactured Home</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84202,84203#msg-84203</link>
      <author>fredcdobbs</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Same process and probably even easier as you can fish your signal cables and power down through the wall and underneath and then back up to your distribution point This is actually a fairly easy DIY project.

Regardless what the local Handy Andy say's, You do not have to demo anything, you do not have to reinforce the wall for the 10-15 pound TV, you do not have to run a new dedicated circuit, you do not have to add extra piers under the chassis, you do not have to get an engineer to calc the loads and best of all it will not void your home warranty if still applicable.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84202,84203#msg-84203</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:52:23 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert] Mounting Flat Panel TV in Manufactured Home</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84202,84202#msg-84202</link>
      <author>cdubaz</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi. I haven't lived in a MF home for very long and have been trying to find out if I can mount my flat panel tv on the wall *and* how I can conceal the cables.  I have found information on how it can be done but no information on if the same process can be done in a manufactured home.  I did ask a neighborhood handyman and he made it sound like you'd practically have to tear the wall down to move or add an electrical outlet.  He didn't inspire confidence so I'd like to have an experts opinion.  Oh, the TV is pretty light, it is a 37&quot; LCD and I plan to hang it flush on the wall.]]></description>
      <category>Ask The Manufactured Housing Expert</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?2,84202,84202#msg-84202</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 26 Apr 2012 23:41:37 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: How to take out sliding windows to replace glass</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84201#msg-84201</link>
      <author>eholly815</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I Thank You for your advice and experience.  I guess first thing is to see how tomorrow. Take it to a local place to replace the glass.  Or ask for an estimate of a new window would be.

Thanks again]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84201#msg-84201</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 01:36:12 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] Re: How to take out sliding windows to replace glass</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84200#msg-84200</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Windows in most homes of that vintage were installed from the outside of the home as it rolled down the assembly line. The window units have a flange that laps over the exterior of the home that has a few dozen screws holding it in place.


I have repaired dozens of broken windows.  In the early days we used to measure the glass, order it from the local glass shop, pick it up and install it ourselves.  This proved to be the least expensive method except for the fact that about 40% of the glass either broke on the way to the job or didn't fit exactly.  

If the glass was slightly too large it was a real problem. Shaving 1/32 of an inch off of a sheet of glass is a difficult trick in a glass shop, with all the right tools.  Attempting it in the field was just silly.  If the glass was a tiny fraction to small the finished window looked horrid with a glob of caulking down one side. So we gave up on that.

Next we tried taking the window out, bringing it to the glass shop, letting them replace the broken sheet and then reinstalling the window.  This worked very well as it put the responsibility for fitting and cutting the glass into the glass shop.  

Over the course of time to cost of labour to remove and replace the window as well as 2 round trips to the glass shop rose to the point where today it is less expensive some times to just replace the entire window unit.  or simply get the glass shop to send a technician to make the repairs in the field.

If you feel more ambitious than I do about doing this your self. 

Since the late 80's - early 90's  manufactured homes have been built with double insulated vinyl windows. When a window breaks, most of the time it’s just as easy to replace the whole window. But do you really need to?  What if it’s a big expensive picture window that needs fixed? You may be surprised to know that replacing the glass is actually easier than replacing the window. For a step by step, slide show, tutorial  CLICK HERE 
]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84200#msg-84200</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:07:59 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation] How to take out sliding windows to replace glass</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84199#msg-84199</link>
      <author>eholly815</author>
      <description><![CDATA[How to take out sliding glass window to replace glass?

I have a 1988 HollyPark with sliding glass windows. My next door Neighbor was mowing his yard, and a stone went thru the screen and broke my window. It is the sliding side of the window.  I have searched, googled etc and can't figure out how my sliding window comes out to replace the glass?

Appreciate any help or suggestions]]></description>
      <category>Manufactured Home Repair &amp; Renovation</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?8,84199,84199#msg-84199</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 24 Apr 2012 12:03:32 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>[First Time Home Buyers Forum] Re: First time buyer lots of questions</title>
      <link>http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,78907,84198#msg-84198</link>
      <author>David Oxhandler</author>
      <description><![CDATA[There are several excellent Buyers Guides.  The Manufactured Housing Book Store is running a Special 2 Book Offer on both of the best selling  Grissim Manufactured Home Shopper's Guides

The Complete Buyer's Guide to Manufactured Homes and Land - is a comprehensive resource guide for MH Shoppers that explains just how the manufactured home industry operates, how to find a dealer worthy of your trust, how to make the right home selection, and, as important, how to be informed so you can make the right decisions. How to determine the fair price of a home. Smart negotiating tactics, (what not to disclose) and even Deal terms—what to insist be in writing Exhaustively researched, and with extensive input from both industry insiders and consumer advocates, this guide gives you all the information and tools you will need to successfully find and purchase the right home for you.

AND  

The Grissim Ratings Guide to Manufactured Homes - rates every Manufactured Housing Builder's products, price ranges, construction ratings.Descriptions of the entire spectrum of what manufactured housing has to offer, from gorgeous high end dwellings indistinguishable from site-built homes to bare bones single section housing.


Become an educated consumer. Grab the special on both books HERE]]></description>
      <category>First Time Home Buyers Forum</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mobilehome.com/phorum5/read.php?3,78907,84198#msg-84198</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 24 Apr 2012 11:25:32 -0400</pubDate>
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